Principles of forming bonsai

bonsai1• Kupując roślinę, from which we want to form a bonsai, you have to see many copies, to select a specimen, the formation of which will require the least number of drastic treatments.

• Najlepszym terminem do rozpoczęcia uprawy bonsai jest marzec-kwiecień (before the beginning of vegetation).

• Po przesadzeniu rośliny do doniczki odczekujemy tydzień lub dwa i przycinamy zbędne gałęzie.

• Następnie przystępujemy do formowania pnia za pomocą drutu. It should be flexible, e.g.. copper, wrapped in tape or in a plastic sheath, thickness of approx. 1 /3 trunk diameter. Fix the wire in the ground and wrap it around the trunk from the bottom up. Wire conifers in early spring or autumn, deciduous trees in spring and summer, when the branches are less brittle.

• Odrutowany pień delikatnie naginamy. Larger bends are additionally fixed with a special clamp, which we leave for one or several months.

• Przez 2-3 weeks after plowing, the tree should be protected from harsh sun and wind, water and sprinkle them daily. Fertilization can begin 2 weeks after surgery (if we form a tree in spring).

• Kiedy należy zdjąć drut? Then, when we are sure, that the trunk was permanently formed, and the wire has not yet grown into the bark – in conifers usually after 12-18 months, in deciduous after 6-8.

• Drut zdejmujemy od góry do dołu (contrary to what was assumed). We are also removing raffia.

• W następnych latach, when plants grow, they should be removed from spring to autumn, leaving only 1/3 their length, and completely remove the shoots knocking out of the trunk. In the literary style, too densely growing needles need to be thinned (from May to August).

• O czym należy jeszcze pamiętać? Bonsai uformowane z drzew i krzewów powinno być uprawiane przez cały rok na zewnątrz – in the garden, on the terrace or balcony. In winter, the pot must be protected against frost (e.g.. polystyrene), the branches should be sheltered from the wind.